Tips for sewing with 12wt thread

12wt thread is a very thick thread. For my first experience with it I chose to free motion quilt this quilt. The thread is Aurifil. It was one of my most amazing quilting experiences. While quilting this quilt, I learned how helpful the Jeans needle is. Since then, this needle type is the only one I use for quilting and for sewing bags.

For those that still need to experiment with free motion quilting, this thread is not a good idea to start. It is easier to use this thread for a straight line quilting done with the walking foot. But some have problems even when using this technique; if you are one of them, don’t worry, there is one more option: this thread can be used in the bobbin.

While sewing my latest faux leather bags, because I “quilted” the panels from the back side, I thought it is a great opportunity to try bobbin work. Winding 12wt thread in the bobbin is like winding any other thread, you just need more bobbins than usual!

The back panel of this bag was stitched with 12wt thread (Aurifil).

Tips for sewing with 12 wt thread

The interfacing is foam. I stitched these panels with the foam side up.

Here are some tips for sewing with 12wt thread in the bobbin:

use the walking foot
use 40wt thread in the needle
use Jeans needles 18/110 (or 16/100)
tighten the tension of the top thread, loosen the tension of the bobbin thread
increase the size of the stitch (3.0 or 3.5 mm)
test the tension setting on a scrap before starting to sew your project

That’s it!

Not fond of vinyl? You can use the same technique on other fabrics that need some embellishment (like the heavyweight cotton you see below) and you find it harder to quilt them in the regular way.

If you want to sew a complicated design, print it (or draw it) on paper, put the paper on top of the fabric+foam and sew through all the layers.

Remove the paper; you created an amazing design with no effort!

Here are the bags made with this technique, with designs on paper.

If you have some thick, decorative thread at home, I hope you will give these techniques a try!

Pattern for all these bags here.

Happy sewing!

4 Comments

Thank you for these tips on 12 wt. thread. I haven’t tried this yet, but like how it looks. The three color stripes on solid is really super!

You have inspired me to use 12wt thread in my quilting. I’m a beginner, so straight line designs are a great way to start, and your designs are gorgeous!

Thanks for your time and informative information!
I am not so good at this yet! I am working on sewing and quilting! Thanks this time in our area we need to stay in
And avoid the virus! A new project is just what I need
Take care!

I love your patterns. I was trying to get the English paper piecing downloads and can not seem to get them to come threw. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks