How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

We all love to sew quick and easy things; in this way, we sew more and share more of what we sew with our loved ones.

But sometimes you choose another path: you choose to make it better instead of making it faster. I just did this last week, and I can’t describe the amazing feeling that I had once the project was finished. I was so proud that I allowed myself to spend more time doing a better job!

My project involved pockets on the lining of a simple shopping bag I made for one of my sisters. I used an incredibly beautiful fabric by Hoffman, one of my patterns, and I thought that this beautiful bag and my sister deserve a zippered pocket.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Do you know what is a welt pocket?
It is usually stitched on jackets and pants, it is a very beautiful accent. There are many ways to sew this type of pocket, and some of them are quite complicated! But there is a simple way, too, and 95% of what it requires you may already know! Isn’t that great?

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
Double welt pocket with zipper and single welt pocket

Slip pockets are so easy and quick to sew on lining; they do their job but they are just ugly and now – my last option when it comes to sewing pockets.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
I sewed with contrasting thread only for visibility purpose; you should use a thread that matches the color of your fabric.
TRENDING patterns

Here is what you need, and also the size of my pieces:

– piece of fabric where the pocket will be placed (lining of bag -13” x 13”)
– pocket panel (lining of the pocket): 10” x 18”

The width of this piece must be about 3” wider than the pocket opening  ( 7” in this example).
For the length – double the desired depth of your pocket and add 2” to this size.

Fuse interfacing to the back of both pieces (I used a lightweight, woven interfacing).

On the back of the pocket panel, draw a rectangle as shown below. Use a permanent pen.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Place the pocket panel on the lining panel, as shown – centered and at 1 1/2” from the top edge (it could be 2” as well).
Keep the pieces together with pins.
Sew on the outside rectangle.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Cut down on the inside lines. Make sure you finish those diagonal cuts exactly at the corners (see the red arrow) – this is so important!  Otherwise, you will encounter puckers in the next step.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Pull the pocket fabric through the hole you just cut to the wrong side of the main panel.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Press the seams open.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Flatten the fabric on the back so you have a nice and flat opening.

All these are the steps you follow when you sew a regular, zippered pocket, so until now, probably there is nothing new to you?

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
View from the front

If you want to make a double welt pocket, mark the center of the opening on the left and right edges of the pocket, as shown below.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
View from the back

Fold down the upper section of the pocket as shown below, so it covers half of the opening.  The fold must meet the previous markings.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Here is how it looks like on the right side. If everything looks OK, press the fold well on the back side.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

In the same way, fold up the lower section of the pocket so it covers the other half of the opening.
This is a double welt pocket.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

If you make a single welt pocket, keep the upper section of the pocket intact and fold up the lower section so it covers the entire opening.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Keep the seam allowances open.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Use pins to keeping everything safely in place and press well.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Topstitch all around the opening as shown below, close to the seam line – with a matching thread!

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Here is how it looks like on the back side.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Close the pocket lining; fold it in half, aligning the top and bottom edges and the left and right edges.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Sew at 3/8” from the edges, as shown below.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Because we don’t need access to the top section of the pocket and to avoid that unaesthetic opening (see the yellow arrow)…

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

… secure the top of the opening by topstitching through all the layers, as shown below (on top of the previous stitching).

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Single welt pocket done!

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

Here is a double welt pocket, secured with stitch-in-the-ditch seams.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

View from the back.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

I added even a zipper; I used pins to keep it in place but if you find it difficult, baste the zipper in place with thread.  Stitch-in-the-ditch again to secure the zipper in place. Use matching thread.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

I stitched these welt pockets inside my bag, but you can sew them on the outside bag, as well; it will add a nice finishing touch to any bag.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

I hope you will give this technique a try! It is so worth the little extra time needed!

DOWNLOAD this tutorial in pdf form – IT’S FREE!

HOW TO SEW WELT POCKETS
on any bag


COMPLETE TUTORIAL

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

I quilted my fabric on Bosal In-R-Form foam- my new favorite replacement for batting when I sew quilted bags.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets
How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

I need to sew more bags like this! The pattern is my Simply Chic bag pattern, reduced at about 90%.

Happy sewing!

If you find this tutorial helpful, PIN it for later review.

How to sew pockets for bags- welt pockets

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22 Comments

    1. I can’t believe how easy you made this pocket. Always wanted to try but could never find a tutorial that explained it as easy as you did. Thank you.

  1. Thanks, Geta! Just yesterday I was trying to figure this out on my own. 🙂 Appreciate your helpful and timely tutorial.

  2. I used your instructions for a welt zipper pocket on the outside of a bag earlier this year. I entered the bag in a show and it sold right away. Now I’m anxious to try a bag with single welt on the inside.
    I love your tutorials.

    1. This will be piece of cake for you, Mary, since you already know how to sew the zippered pocket. Glad to hear your bags are successful.

  3. Thank you for this tutorial. I have your earlier “Sew Better Bags” and refer to it, but this pocket tutorial could be called “Even Better Bags” . You are so clever and so helpful with your tips and instructions.

    1. Glenna, I am glad I took the time to learn this technique and share it here. 15 years ago I learned another technique for a pocket and this allowed me to make my first (and most successful) bag pattern (Amelie). I don’t sew garments but I learned a few techniques that can easily be applied and adapted to bag sewing.

  4. You made this so easy by using a folded part of the pocket fabric to make the welt(s). Pure genius! No more wrestling those pesky, narrow little strips. Can’t wait to try this on my next bag.

    1. Definitely not my original idea, Carol. I watched a lot of tutorials and videos until I understood how it works. The things become complicated when you want to use different fabrics for the welt and for the lining of the pocket. In garment construction this is usually used. For bags we don’t need additional complications!

  5. I’m going to use your method to make elegant buttonholes on jackets – it is so much easier than my old way! Thanks a lot.

  6. I love making bags too and cannot wait to try this technique out today!
    Thank you for your helpful tutorials and inspiration!

  7. Hello,

    I think I’ve made a mistake. The instructions do not say whether or not the pocket should be stitched to the bag lining after the pocket is folded up. I only noticed after I made it that your photos don’t show stitching around the whole pocket. Was I supposed to fold the bag lining back before sewing the raw pocket edges closed? Thanks for any help. It really is a great looking pocket.

  8. Buenas noches porfavor el patrón del bolsillo muchísimas gracias excelente tutorial me acabo de registrar aquí y en Youtube felicidades un saludo feliz noche

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