How to sew a zipper overlay

Tutorial update:
I added 4 more templates for the zipper overlay.

Sometimes you want to add a special touch to a bag you sew.  On the exterior bag, you use beautiful fabric and a beautiful design. But how about the lining? The lining is the place where you can add that special touch, it’s the place that shows your attention for details.

How about a 10-minute additional work that can transform a simple zippered pocket into a sophisticated one?

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Zipper overlay size: 2½’’ x 9½’’
Zipper length: 7½’’

Here is what you need for one pocket:
– lining (or bag) panel to which you want to add the zipper pocket with zipper overlay
– faux leather/vinyl/cork/leather: 4’’ x 10’’
– pocket lining: two pieces: 6’’ x 9½’’; 7’’ x 9½’’
– zipper: at least 9½’’ long

Templates for the overlay (download them at the end of this tutorial). You can make the overlay in different shapes, I made six for you.

You will reuse these templates so it is best to print the templates on cardstock.

Cut the overlay from the vinyl piece. Place the template on the back of the vinyl. Draw around the outside edge and inside rectangle. Cut on the drawn lines. Use a ruler and rotary cutter for the straight lines and sharp scissors for the curved edges.

Place the template on the back of your lining, at 2’’ from the top edge; keep it centered horizontally. Draw along the inside rectangle.

Cut on the drawn lines (just outside the lines). Turn the lining right side up.

On the back of the overlay, place two strips of double-sided adhesive tape as shown in this picture (it’s white on white that’s why I marked it with blue).

Remove the paper backing of the adhesive tape…

…
and center the overlay over the opening in the lining. Stitch close to the outside edge of the overlay.

Place the zipper, teeth side up, on the right side of the smaller pocket lining piece. Align the zipper along the 9½’’ edge of the fabric. Stitch close to the zipper edge, as shown (see the black line).

Keep the two parts of the zipper together with a few stitches (only through the zipper, not fabric underneath- see the green marking). Keep the fabric with zipper in this position.

Add on top of it the lining piece, with the overlay’s opening centered on to the zipper. Stitch through all layers only along the bottom edge of the opening. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Turn the piece on the back side. See the previous stitching (the red line).

Bring the lining down, press the fold away from the zipper. Keep the end of the zipper (see the green arrow) in place with a little glue or… see the next picture…

…
with a little piece of double-sided adhesive tape.

Place the other lining piece (wrong side up) on top, aligning the bottom, left, and right edges of the two pieces.

This lining piece extends past the top edge of the zipper, don’t worry about it.

Keep the two pieces aligned with a few pins. Turn the piece on the other side…

…
and sew through all the layers along the three sides of the zipper opening (see the green marking lines).

Turn the piece on the back side. See the previous seam (the green lines).
Close the lining:  sew (only through the two lining pieces) at ¼’’ from the three edges (see the blue marking lines).
The lining of the pocket is finished.

If you want to download these instructions and six overlay templates, click below.

That’s all!
Use a walking foot when sewing vinyl, if you don’t have a teflon foot.
I hope this helps, and you will give it a try! 

Happy sewing bags!