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How to sew a zipper overlay

August 8, 2023 8 Comments

Tutorial update:
I added 4 more templates for the zipper overlay.

Sometimes you want to add a special touch to a bag you sew.  On the exterior bag, you use beautiful fabric and a beautiful design. But how about the lining? The lining is the place where you can add that special touch, it’s the place that shows your attention for details.

How about a 10-minute additional work that can transform a simple zippered pocket into a sophisticated one?

You might also like:
How to sew welt pockets

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorial

Zipper overlay size: 2½’’ x 9½’’
Zipper length: 7½’’

Here is what you need for one pocket:
– lining (or bag) panel to which you want to add the zipper pocket with zipper overlay
– faux leather/vinyl/cork/leather: 4’’ x 10’’
– pocket lining: two pieces: 6’’ x 9½’’; 7’’ x 9½’’
– zipper: at least 9½’’ long

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorial

Templates for the overlay (download them at the end of this tutorial). You can make the overlay in different shapes, I made six for you.

Zipper overlay tutorialYou will reuse these templates so it is best to print the templates on cardstock.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialCut the overlay from the vinyl piece. Place the template on the back of the vinyl. Draw around the outside edge and inside rectangle. Cut on the drawn lines. Use a ruler and rotary cutter for the straight lines and sharp scissors for the curved edges.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialPlace the template on the back of your lining, at 2’’ from the top edge; keep it centered horizontally. Draw along the inside rectangle.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialCut on the drawn lines (just outside the lines). Turn the lining right side up.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialOn the back of the overlay, place two strips of double-sided adhesive tape as shown in this picture (it’s white on white that’s why I marked it with blue).

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialRemove the paper backing of the adhesive tape…

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorial…
and center the overlay over the opening in the lining. Stitch close to the outside edge of the overlay.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialPlace the zipper, teeth side up, on the right side of the smaller pocket lining piece. Align the zipper along the 9½’’ edge of the fabric. Stitch close to the zipper edge, as shown (see the black line).

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialKeep the two parts of the zipper together with a few stitches (only through the zipper, not fabric underneath- see the green marking). Keep the fabric with zipper in this position.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialAdd on top of it the lining piece, with the overlay’s opening centered on to the zipper. Stitch through all layers only along the bottom edge of the opening. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialTurn the piece on the back side. See the previous stitching (the red line).

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialBring the lining down, press the fold away from the zipper. Keep the end of the zipper (see the green arrow) in place with a little glue or… see the next picture…

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorial…
with a little piece of double sided adhesive tape.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialPlace the other lining piece (wrong side up) on top, aligning the bottom, left, and right edges of the two pieces.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialThis lining piece extends past the top edge of the zipper, don’t worry about it.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialKeep the two pieces aligned with a few pins. Turn the piece on the other side…

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorial…
and sew through all the layers along the three sides of the zipper opening (see the green marking lines).

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorialTurn the piece on the back side. See the previous seam (the green lines).
Close the lining:  sew (only through the two lining pieces) at ¼’’ from the three edges (see the blue marking lines).
The lining of the pocket is finished.

How to sew a zipper overlay- tutorial
If you want to download these instructions and six overlay templates, click below.


That’s all!
Use a walking foot when sewing vinyl, if you don’t have a teflon foot.
I hope this helps and you will give it a try!

 

Happy sewing bags!

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Filed Under: bag tutorials, handmade bags, sewing, tutorials

Comments

  1. Lynn says

    April 15, 2022 at 3:39 pm

    This is a fabulous tutorial Geta!

    Reply
    • Geta Grama says

      April 15, 2022 at 5:26 pm

      Thank you, Lynn, I am glad you find it helpful.

      Reply
      • Kathy Dempster says

        January 19, 2023 at 8:19 pm

        I loved your tutorial. The first one I have had. Such easy instructions with your drawn lines. Thank you

        Reply
  2. Andrea Mitchell says

    April 15, 2022 at 5:05 pm

    Another great tutorial! You always use the most logical and easy to understand methods. Your graphic element (especially the way you use color) add to the clarity. Thank you so much.

    Reply
    • Geta Grama says

      April 15, 2022 at 5:26 pm

      Thank you, I am glad you find the tutorials easy to understand, Andrea.

      Reply
  3. Robyn Lidstone in Australia says

    April 15, 2022 at 9:37 pm

    Thanks, Geta, for a very useful tutorial. The step-by-step instructions with corresponding images make it easy to follow.

    Reply
  4. Emma says

    October 30, 2022 at 7:28 pm

    Thanks, these are very unique and fascinating. I will try them on wallets to see how it will work on them. That is, if I can decrease the size, if required. Love this!!

    Reply
  5. Zinobia says

    August 8, 2023 at 1:49 pm

    Thank you Greta. Your quilt colours and techniques are amazing. Grateful to you for sharing it with us.

    Reply

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