The zippered pockets of our bags keep our belongings safe inside the bag so here is a way to add a zippered pocket to your lining (a slip pocket comes as a bonus, too!). It is actually a simple pouch attached to the lining. Maybe some of you will find this technique easier than other techniques for zippered pockets on the lining.
You need two pieces of fabric, for the exterior pocket and for the lining. Decide the size of your pocket (length and width) and cut the pieces using this formula:
length+1” (for seam allowances).
2 x width+1” (for seam allowances).
For a 6” x 12” pocket, I cut my pieces 13” x 13” (this is a long pocket, suitable for an oversized bag; for a medium bag, you need a shorter pocket).
You also need a zipper that is 3” shorter than the length of your pieces (it could be longer, as well) – 10” or longer, in my case.
Turn the lining of the pocket wrong side up. At 1.5″ from the top edge, mark a rectangle (centered width-wise) that is 10” long and ½’’ wide (see the green lines). Use a fine permanent marker. . Mark the red lines too, as shown.
If you use other measurements, keep in mind that the marked rectangle should always be 1/2” wide and 3” shorter than the size of your piece; keep it centered.
Pin the lining to the exterior fabric, right sides together. Stitch through both layers along all sides of the green rectangle. Backstitch when you reach the corners, this will strengthen the corners.
Carefully cut down the center of the rectangle (cut on the red lines in the previous image) then clip toward the corners as close as you can without clipping the stitching.
Pull the lining though the hole you just cut to the wrong side of the exterior fabric.
Keep the rectangle opening flat and press with steam. Your piece should look like this.
Position the zipper behind the opening. Baste in place, if necessary. Then stitch all along the opening to secure the zipper in place (a zipper foot is helpful).
If your zipper is longer, trim off the excess.
OPEN THE ZIPPER AT LEAST HALF WAY.
Fold the exterior fabric in half, aligning all the edges. Stitch along the edges, at 1/4” (see the red lines). Keep the lining away from the stitching.
Repeat and stitch the lining, but leave a gap (see the green lines).
Trim off the corners.
Using the opening left in the lining, turn the pouch right side out. Push out the corners using your fingers.
Close the opening in the lining. Tuck the lining inside and give the whole thing a final press. Your pouch is now ready to be attached to the lining.
Place the pouch over the lining piece in the desired place and stitch along the three edges as shown below.
Now you can see that the zippered pouch creates not only a zippered pocket but also a slip pocket.
If your pouch is too long (longer than 8”), it is best to attach the bottom layers of the pouch to the lining, as well- see the red line below. It is easier to do this before you attach the sides of the pouch to the lining (the green lines). Make sure you don’t catch the zipper in the stitching.
This stitching will divide the big slip pocket in two compartments, making it more useful.
I hope you will give this technique a try. I can’t wait to use my new bag and see how comfortable my new pockets are.